K+5: 13 Things in the New Orleans food culture changed by Hurricane Katrina
August 26th, 2010
1. Revered local restaurants closed — and some iconic local foods disappeared.Bruning’s, Chateaubriand, René Bistrot, Bella Luna, Barrow’s, Mandich, Christian’s, Cobalt, Gabrielle, Michael’s Mid-City Grill, United Bakery, Manuel’s Hot Tamales, Crystal Preserves & Spicy Brown Mustard … they’re all gone.
2. Many new restaurants and even a few specialty food stores opened-Cochon, Stanley, La Boca, Il Posto, Luke, Patois and Stein’s Market and Deli — those are just a handful of the dozens upon dozens of restaurants that opened after Katrina. (For more, read restaurant writer Brett Anderson’s story in Friday’s Lagniappe.)
“I think that quite quickly the baton was passed to a new generation of chefs, “ says Richard McCarthy, executive director of Market Umbrella, which runs the Crescent City Farmers Markets. “New restaurants opened and it seemed quite insane at the time, and the only thing that seems even more insane is they continue to open.”
Tulane graduates Danielle and Richard Sutton were among those taking the leap. They moved back to New Orleans from London in 2006 to start St. James Cheese Company on Prytania Street.
“After Katrina we felt like, ‘What a great time to come and try and do something, ‘ “ Richard Sutton said. “We came and visited after the storm and thought, ‘Wow, things are going to come back, and we want to be part of it.’ “
Brigtsen’s chef Frank Brigtsen said the newcomers have been less upscale and more “casual fine dining to really low-end but delicious food, with simple cafes and a lot of breakfast-lunch type places.
“I think that’s a really good thing, “ he added. “I think the beauty of the restaurant business here is its diversity. In New Orleans, we’re blessed in that it’s not an ultra-competitive restaurant scene.”
3. Locals’ appreciation for food deepened.
“In a very intense, concentrated space of time, people found out what really mattered to them, “ McCarthy said. “Food became the most important rituals of our lives.”
4. Everyday food habits changed in the home.
“I think people are mindful about how much stuff they keep in their freezers, “ said Liz Williams of the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. “I think people who might have to evacuate actually prepare for the idea that they’re going to either lose stuff or take food with them to somewhere … because all this venison or shrimp in my freezer can’t be wasted.
“I also think a lot of people put their cookbooks up higher. I’m not kidding.”
Williams also created her own culinary grab-and-go emergency kit.
“If I have to go someplace for a while, I know I won’t be able to find filé, so when everybody else is going out and buying batteries, I’m buying fresh filé. In my emergency kit, I only have chicory, not coffee, because I can usually get good coffee somewhere.”
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By Judy Walker
NOLA.com
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